Hello to everyone. I'm both new to the forums and (soon to be) new to a 4Runner. Admins, please feel free to move my post if it doesn't belong in this forum.

I've located 2 '95s in my area but I only know what I've read about the 4Runner, so I'm looking for advice from some hands-on, real-world users. I think the best I can do is post links to both and let you folks see them:

1) http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/1594102583.html - This is from a private seller. An email from him told me, "The engine was replaced with a rebuilt engine that runs perfectly now. We also replaced the radiator recently with a new one. The tailgate window motor is working but the piece that connects to the glass wore away(can be fixed pretty cheap). Once the window is down the tailgate opens up.There are no head gasket problems. I'm not sure what he means about the window.

2) http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/dd...aler_id=171430
- This is from a used dealership. I've driven it twice. The calipers were sticking, most likely due to the truck sitting outside in the Chicago cold. They seemed to completely fix themselves the more I drove it, but the steering pulled right pretty strongly any time I hit the brakes. The engine felt good and is running smoothly. It shifted fine. The 4WD works fine, high & low. The dome light is out, but all of the dash lights work perfectly and the shop assured me the electrical and charging systems are in good working order. Two things don't work: the passenger rear window and the tailgate window. Therefore, the tailgate can't be opened.

I only plan on using it as a daily driver on-road in the Chicago suburbs. I need the extra hauling room and a place to carry my dogs. I'm tired of not having 4WD when I could really use it during the super-fun Chicago winters. I know either will need a few things done to it; I'm just trying to keep my repair/replacement costs as low as possible. I plan on learning as much as I can about the vehicle as I can so I can do most work myself.

Thanks in advance for any input given. I could really use the advice, especially some specific questions I should ask the owners of each vehicle.

 

Look for a '96. I have a 94 and prefer the body of the second generation to the third generation but the 3rd gen (96-2002) got the 3.4L v6. MUCH better engine than the 3.0L, more power AND better gas mileage. I will swap in the newer engine sometime this year, do yourself a favor and buy one year newer.

 

for the second link, i know just a tid bit about cars, and i own a 4th generation T4R myself, but when a car is turning on its own when pressing the brakes, it means the pressure in the brake lines are off due to the lines changing in thickness, i live in chicago as well, and it makes sense that the stressing of the actual brake lines have changed because of the weather we have here. i'm not too sure on how much it would cost, but its quite the pain in the ***. But going back to the car, it means that one of the brake lines on the passenger side of the car is smaller than the others, and so when you press the brake pedal, the pressure is a lot higher to the passenger sides wheels which is why it is going to the right a lot.

 

Sorry but you're way off on the brakes. The hard lines do not "change size," they might somehow get crimped if some work was done wrong. And the flexible lines never get smaller. They wear out and swell sometimes leaving the brake peddle spongy or soft as they "give" while you step on the brakes. Pulling one direction while braking means there's more drag on that side because of warped rotor, worn out pads on the other side, mis- aligned rotor or caliper, etc. If the truck still pulls right after releasing brakes it could be sticky piston in the rotor. Conceivably there could be a blockage (dirt, etc) in the left line that doesn't allow full pressure on that piston. This is at a dealer, have them examine the brakes or you don't buy it.

 

"The tailgate window motor is working but the piece that connects to the glass wore away(can be fixed pretty cheap). Once the window is down the tailgate opens up.There are no head gasket problems. I'm not sure what he means about the window." Sounds like the tailgate is NOT working right now because the glass does not go up and down because though the motor works the regulator arms are NOT moving the glass down. It sounds like if you remove the inner panel and manually move the glass down the tailgate will open. Hmmmmm.

 

I looked at the listing for the dealer truck. Looks to be in good shape. For that price you'll have to do a few things. Rear window and passenger door window regulator are very easy and not to expensive. Make them deal with the brakes.

 

Thank you both for the info. I'll mention that to the dealer about the brakes. I didn't consider the brake lines could be the problem. I'll ask them about that as well. The truck doesn't pull either way when the brakes aren't being used. When they 1st pulled it out, the left rear wheel was completely locked. Also, when shifting from park to drive, then letting off the brake pedal, the truck didn't move at all; it should since it's an automatic and it was on level ground. But, again, after I drove it a few blocks, this fixed itself, which (I believe) means the caliper was probably sticking and not releasing like it's supposed to until it was driven a bit.

dsleggett, you said the window regulators are easy & inexpensive; I've replaced a manual passenger door regulator before and it was both. In this case, I have some concern for 2 reasons:
1) The back one must be quite a bit larger. I don't know if that makes a difference in doing the work or the price.
2) Also, these are both automatic windows, so it could be the motor(s), not just the regulator. I think those are a lot more expensive.
Still, I know $2700 is quite cheap, but I don't want to have to drop $1000 right away to fix little things.

All of this discussion may be for naught. I found a '93 Limited with low miles, everything original, every factory option offered including trailer hitch which has never been used by appearance (the wiring harness that came with it is still in the glove box in the plastic wrapper). I've been to see it and it's obvious it was garaged it's whole life. The price is only a few hundred more than the previous two '95s I've considered. I'm waiting until the new owner, a wholesaler out of Indiana, has the title next week before I buy anything. This one is immaculate.

pcho74, do you have any additional info on what extra fees/taxes I will face when buying an older vehicle like this? I'm from IL, but new to Chicago, and, since I've seen how ridiculously expensive everything is here, I'm worried about discovering I have to pay a few hundred bucks AFTER my purchase to legally get it on the road.

Thanks again for all your info, folks. I sincerely appreciate it.

 

the brake lines are just what i've heard, sorry if i went the wrong route and told you the wrong information!! i've just heard about stressing the brake lines, but i'm pretty sure i've also heard about brake lines changing in size which lead to a difference in pressure all around. But sorry for the wrong information, good thing someone knows what they're talkin about!! and i'm not sure on other taxes/fees you would come across, sorry i can't be any help there!!

 

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