Rear defogger dash switch workaround?
#1
Rear defogger dash switch workaround?
Hello the forum. Did a "search" for rear defogger, got one hit but unfortunately didn't address my problem.
The rear defogger in my 87 won't work. Punch the swtich, no light, window stays fogged. For a while there, repeated pushing of the switch got the thing working, but not anymore. I figured it was a bad switch, but took it to the $tealership since the weather seemed to remain crappy for the foreseeable future (no garage at home), and I needed it fixed fast.
Service confirmed it was a bum switch, but didn't have one in their system. If they did, it would be $156, plus another $99.50 for the five minute job of pullling the panel, removing the switch at the connector, and replacing the switch.
So, I want to put in a plain ol' toggle switch instead.
Looking at the wiring diagram in Haynes, I figure if I connect the Light Green wire to the "power" terminal of the switch, the Orange wire to the "acc" terminal of the switch, and guessing the Black wire gets plugged into the "ground" terminal of the switch, that would do the trick.
I figured no need to worry about the bLue w/Red stripe running up from the limit switch, but you never know.
Anyone ever done this before? Anyone a wiring guru that can tell me if what I describe above makes sense? Sure wouldn't want to burn the 4Runner to the ground...
The rear defogger in my 87 won't work. Punch the swtich, no light, window stays fogged. For a while there, repeated pushing of the switch got the thing working, but not anymore. I figured it was a bad switch, but took it to the $tealership since the weather seemed to remain crappy for the foreseeable future (no garage at home), and I needed it fixed fast.
Service confirmed it was a bum switch, but didn't have one in their system. If they did, it would be $156, plus another $99.50 for the five minute job of pullling the panel, removing the switch at the connector, and replacing the switch.
So, I want to put in a plain ol' toggle switch instead.
Looking at the wiring diagram in Haynes, I figure if I connect the Light Green wire to the "power" terminal of the switch, the Orange wire to the "acc" terminal of the switch, and guessing the Black wire gets plugged into the "ground" terminal of the switch, that would do the trick.
I figured no need to worry about the bLue w/Red stripe running up from the limit switch, but you never know.
Anyone ever done this before? Anyone a wiring guru that can tell me if what I describe above makes sense? Sure wouldn't want to burn the 4Runner to the ground...
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Nairn
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10-01-2011 02:50 AM